WESTERN SAHARA
The Western Sahara is the disputed territory of North Africa that is at the “edge of nowhere”. This is where the dry Sahara meets and crumbles to the roaring Atlantic Ocean. The small flaky landmass may seem to cling tightly to Mauritania in the east, but it isn’t so, as landmines have scattered along that wide border. Upon first impression, West Sahara looks like a limbo, the most arid, inhospitable, and uninhabitable on the planet, but while it might not look much, for the hundreds of thousands of Sahrawis, this is their homeland.
Territories of the West Sahara are still claimed and controlled by Morocco, like Dakhla which teems with life and spirit, the would-be capital of the Polisario’s West Sahara country, if they ever get it. Bordered by Mauritania, Algeria, and, emphatically, Morocco, the state possesses a rich culture that is far and away from Moroccan influence. New activities and attractions are sprouting, as well as new industries making the West Sahara a promising tourist destination.
GEOGRAPHY
West Sahara (24 30 N, 13 00 W) has a total area of 266,000 km2 of mainly low and flat desert land. Rocky, jagged, and sandy, the coastline facing the Atlantic in the West rolls to small mountains inland towards the northeast and the south. The highest point stands at 805 metres above sea level, but the lowest point is -55 metres below sea level. The land can barely support the country’s agriculture with only 0.02% of arable land. There is scarcity in fresh water sources, but fishing is the main economic activity here as the Atlantic waters are abundant with marine life.
CLIMATE
While the name bears heat and drought, not all places in this thriving state are. Offshore, the climate is actually cool and windy from the air currents with fog and heavy dew. The Saharan desert, however, will be distressingly sweltering with a dry desert climate and rain will be rare. Daytime temperatures go over 40°C or 105°F.
PEOPLE
Western Sahara is one of the most sparsely inhabited places in the world with a population of around 4.9 million people. The people of this state are the Sahrawis of Sahraouis of Arab-Berbers heritage who are up to this present time have not been granted the independence they so deserve. The Sahrawis perhaps necessitate this because, after all, they hold their own very distinct culture and language. Besides, Morocco does not really want the Sahrawis. Being here, it’s not hard to see that Sahrawis are treated like second-class citizens of Morocco.
LANGUAGE
The Sahrawian vernacular is HASSANIYA, the Arabic they have adapted, while some can also speak in MOROCCAN ARABIC. Western Sahara is formerly Spanish Sahara, hence signs use the SPANISH language, possibly by and for the old generations who still speak it. FRENCH is used by a small business class, for instance in labelling their ingredients in this tongue, and a trip to the markets would validate this.
RELIGION
Indubitably, the main religion of the region is Islam, which has been then and now the way of life, albeit sans the traditional place of worship, the mosque. Despite this aforementioned absence, Sidi Ahmed Babo, Sidi Aabdal-la Ben Musa, Sidi Bubequer, Rayem el Antri, and Leyaraf are famous places of Islam worship in Western Sahara.
ATTRACTIONS
So when you’re here, the traveller might have to deal with the immortal question of others their kind, “what are you doing here?” Certainly, the roads are good, plus, the desert scenery will take you aback. Standing on the horrifyingly crumbly cliff with a view of the eternal and infinite Atlantic Ocean renders unparalleled solemnity, and one really has to remind oneself that s/he is on dangerous ground, politically and otherwise. Some people hate surprises, more so in the Western Sahara, but never has it felt good to be so wrong about a place just like this here.
The Western Sahara is one place in Africa that is fairly off the beaten path as a whole, hence, the awesome holiday opportunity for adventurous people. Tourism infrastructures are nothing but diners and gas stations few and far in between, pink sand dunes, and the bluest skies and seas anywhere. Dakhla will be the de facto capital when W. Sahara is finally relieved by Morocco (could also be Laayoune). The place is culturally rich, alive and spirited, and the site of Moroccan extreme sports events. The populated city of 67,468 inhabitants (2006) is a peninsula, a thin shoulder off Sahara. A place for water and sun worshippers because, in its confines are the famous bay of Ria de Villa Cisneros and the overwhelming beach of Canal de los Fortines…and there are even more beaches. Just ask for “playa”.
Visit El-Aaiún (or Laâyoune), the de jure city of Western Sahara, for a feel of the culture and a taste of its cuisine in what looks like an expo in the local market. The only known watering hole, locals and foreigners flock Laayoune-Plage for brews and spirits. The town harbour is also an alluring yet energetic place to be. Whether you’re invited to share a feast with a family, which is most likely, or simply chatter with the independent businessmen, you’ll find that Sahrawian hospitality is not just a cup of good mint tea, but the best discounted prices on souvenirs too, on a side note, unlike Morocco. And the traveller will know s/he’s not in Morocco for the all-around presence of camels and oases, forts, and the W. Saharan Wall-not a tourist site, more like a landmine-litter museum.
FOOD
The Sahrawian cuisine…I can but reckon the camel. The camel is the most important meat in the Sahrawian’s gastronomy bar none. As life and economy is hard, the flexibility and adaptability of the animal to desert life and its effectiveness as supply for meat and dairy is vital. In terms with the Sahrawis’ hospitable nature, the traveller will most likely be invited to share meifrisa, a festive meal of camel or lamb cooked in oil, garlic, onion, salt and water, celebrated once or twice a year perhaps to make merry after some months of skimping and prudence due to the general inaccessibility of food. For a second, Sahrawians forget about the phosphate and oil fields or the hardened stance of Morocco against their independence and enjoy the classic, traditional dishes of the Sahrawian banquet. And, ingredients are always fresh!
Fish, though, is larger than life here with seaports growing and improving by the minute, and we’re talking about fresh fish off the sea from the ports of Dakhla or El-Aaiun, to the pan, and straight to your plate and eaten with bread. Bread baked on glowing charcoal and desert sand consist the daily diet of Sahrawians. Away from the desert and into the market, food goes as deep as the souks. Mint tea, the Sahrawian’s universal tea, is not only a healthy and wonderful commencement, but is an important time to catch up with the locals and fellow road-ridden travellers- and also, for less than a dollar! Fruit juices are also served from authentic pure goodness to crazy delectable blends of orange-strawberry, to the more unfamiliar avocado shakes. Along the way, diners in gas stops serve wonderful meals of omelette, salad, bread, yogurt, coffee and tea for only less than $3, while in bakeries, the traveller shall be fortunate and will have chocolate croissant with panache or orange juice.
For the traveller with a passion for roads less travelled, the land does offer great potential. But be wary that conflicts, riots, and landmines pose serious threats that can spoil your trip. Mostly desert, landmines are indeed a hazard, particularly when hazes occurring 60% of the time that can reduce visibility for the travellers.
Western Sahara is your out-of-bounds travel destination. All in all, it is quite a glorious drive despite the absence of public transport, infinite number of police checkpoints inspecting passports and tourists, and a twice a week opportunity of moving around the region with a military convoy (Tuesdays and Friday). There’s nothing like it…and only a fiver a day too ($5), with dinner! Tell the Sahrawian buddies you’ll make along the way that you count W. Sahara as a country, and they will like that very much, so much as to invite you to feast with them.
Josh Boorman
Editor-in-chief
Backpacking Addictz
Twitter: @backpackaddictz
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